FWIW, -- 100% Efficient Wood Stove (or gas furnace) ! ! !
Now I am not here to argue what the word efficiency means, I am simply talking about capturing 100% of whatever heat is generated through combustion such that the exhaust is cooled down below average room temperature before departing.
Here is how simple it can be.
Use a blower fan to produce a forced draft and draw your exhaust through a series of heat exchangers (could be as simple as 55 gallon steel drums filled with brick pieces or large gravel). Each “container” would be filled with smaller sized pieces and the last one or two would be filled with sand. It is even possible to use wet sand to more quickly and effectively capture the last remaining heat as long as you provide the means of moistening the sand before each burn. BTW . . . the air is cooled before it ever reaches the fan.
Of course there are many things to be considered such as:
• Burn has to be as complete as possible (technique)
• Fuel needs to be as dry(or clean) as possible
• Looping heavier smoke back to burn chamber during early moments of burn would help eliminate most of what little deposits would be generated.
• Generally speaking, the cost to run a fan is far less than the cost to generate heat.
• Since you are capturing all of your heat, a wide open clean burn will not waste heat.
• Draft can be totally controlled by fan speed rather than by opening vents.
• Design must allow for air inlet to close should power to fan go out. ( one or more ultra light weight “doors” that swing open during draft and fall closed when suction stops).
Now this may not work on every combustion heater in the world (gas, oil, wood, pellet, coal . . .) but it would work on a lot of them. If we saved the 10% to 50% of heat that is going up all of those chimneys, the impact would be tremendous. Also, the potential is here to eliminate buying/building an expensive chimney while making the combustible heater safer to operate at a fraction of the cost.
It takes masonry heaters to a whole new level . . .the final level. Cooled down exhaust can be vented almost anywhere outside or even underground. What about heating a greenhouse with a wood stove and then venting almost pure CO2 and H2O vapor back into the house???? What do you think?
Here is how simple it can be.
Use a blower fan to produce a forced draft and draw your exhaust through a series of heat exchangers (could be as simple as 55 gallon steel drums filled with brick pieces or large gravel). Each “container” would be filled with smaller sized pieces and the last one or two would be filled with sand. It is even possible to use wet sand to more quickly and effectively capture the last remaining heat as long as you provide the means of moistening the sand before each burn. BTW . . . the air is cooled before it ever reaches the fan.
Of course there are many things to be considered such as:
• Burn has to be as complete as possible (technique)
• Fuel needs to be as dry(or clean) as possible
• Looping heavier smoke back to burn chamber during early moments of burn would help eliminate most of what little deposits would be generated.
• Generally speaking, the cost to run a fan is far less than the cost to generate heat.
• Since you are capturing all of your heat, a wide open clean burn will not waste heat.
• Draft can be totally controlled by fan speed rather than by opening vents.
• Design must allow for air inlet to close should power to fan go out. ( one or more ultra light weight “doors” that swing open during draft and fall closed when suction stops).
Now this may not work on every combustion heater in the world (gas, oil, wood, pellet, coal . . .) but it would work on a lot of them. If we saved the 10% to 50% of heat that is going up all of those chimneys, the impact would be tremendous. Also, the potential is here to eliminate buying/building an expensive chimney while making the combustible heater safer to operate at a fraction of the cost.
It takes masonry heaters to a whole new level . . .the final level. Cooled down exhaust can be vented almost anywhere outside or even underground. What about heating a greenhouse with a wood stove and then venting almost pure CO2 and H2O vapor back into the house???? What do you think?
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